Day 1 - May 13 - DXB-DVB
We hung out in the Fly Dubai Business Class lounge until it was time to board our flight. Then we ended up being delayed 2 hours on the ground because there was a sandstorm in Dubai, Marcus was texting his coworkers, but they said just be glad you are not diverting to Fujairah. Did you know that after 1 hour they have to redo the safety briefing? I didn't. The crew was nice and the entertainment was turned on so we could watch movies or TV shows while we waited. Only thing that was annoying is the plane got pretty hot, it was about 110 outside though. After takeoff the plane cooled down and we were served breakfast. The breakfast was less impressive than the dinner we had received the last time we flew Fly Dubai business to Georgia. It was still nice to be in business of course, more room, more comfort, and of course, Taittinger champagne.We landed finally and met our driver. He brought us to right outside of the Old City Wall of Dubrovnik because there are no cars allowed inside. Someone affiliated with the AirBnB met us and helped us navigate to our place. We dropped off our stuff and then walked around a little bit. We went to Buza Bar, a bar that is basically built on the side of the wall/rock for some local wine and beer.
After an hour or so there we ended up at a place for dinner. I started with an oyster and then had the shrimp risotto. It was very, very good.
After dinner we were walking around and there was an old building people were going in and out of. We later found out it was Sponza Palace. There is a room in it dedicated to all the Dubrovnik defenders that died during the siege in 1991-1992. It is also home to the Dubrovnik archive. And then there is a stunning open-air courtyard, and we were in there at the perfect time.
Then we returned to the AirBnB and since it was Sunday everything had closed at 1pm so we could not buy any water, we decided to boil some in an electric tea kettle and put it in the fridge to cool down. A few minutes later I decided I'd make tea with what was left and TWO ANTENNAE CAME OUT OF THE SPOUT, IT WAS A COCKROACH. I screamed and lost my $h|t. Marcus killed it. After looking around and not seeing more and zipping up all our things just in case we went to sleep.
Day 2 - May 14 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
We woke up. Marcus found another dying cockroach in the kitchen sink. He started advocating for us to leave the AirBnB and book a rewards stay at a Hilton. We showered and went to breakfast. When we got back to the place I opened the cabinet under the sink to get the hairdyer and there WAS ANOTHER, LOOKING AT ME. I again screamed, slammed the cabinet shut and freaked out. Marcus killed it and then contacted the people to let them know them they had a problem. We turned on all the lights, made sure our stuff was put away and zipped up, and left.We walked the whole city wall, it had beautiful views, but unfortunately it was kind of like something that people just do so you couldn't really stop to look or take a photo whenever you wanted because people would just run you over. We did get some.
ruins |
ruins |
Saint Lawrence Fortress in view |
Old city |
Old city |
Part of the wall |
Saint Lawrence Fortress and Old city |
ruins |
ruins of a church |
and this
Did not get the plaque |
An old well out in their courtyard |
Then we stopped in the Dubrovnik Cathedral and I lit a candle.
Candle lighting |
Grotto replica |
Me with cannon at the Fort |
Cannon |
This is a view of the old city and the city wall from the fort |
After the Fort we went back into the old city to a wine bar to have some Croatian wines.
An entrance to the city |
Day 3 - May 15 - Orebić, Croatia
Woke up, Marcus went to return the AirBnB key. I lounged around in the comfy bed and then got ready. When he returned we went for breakfast, they had a very nice spread. Then we packed up and I waited in the hotel room while Marcus went to go pick up the rental car. He got back about 11:45 so we checked out and left. It was an Audi A3 convertible and a little less than a 2 hour drive to our next destination, Orebić, so we put the top down.
The drive was mostly along the beautiful coast and also we drove through a valley, where it got very chilly.When we got close to the hotel we pulled out of the way of a cop car coming the other direction because it was a narrow road, he put his lights on and then got out of his car and came over, he asked for Marcus's License and the insurance, and then told us to follow him, so we drove back down the road a bit and then stopped. He got out and came back over, he informed us that it was a permit only street and "didn't we see the sign." Marcus said no, sorry, we were following the GPS to the hotel. All the "sign" was was a white circle with a red rim.
the supposed sign |
He wrote a ticket and told us it was 250 Kuna, we didn't have change so he told us to follow him again and we drove to a market who gave him change. I'm still not entirely sure we were not taken advantage of, but we do have a real ticket with a stamp and everything ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ . Then we continued on a different road and were able to find some gravel lot that we parked in. The hotel, Boutique Hotel Adriatic, was around the other side on the permit only road, which seemed to me to have a lot of cars on it. We checked in and told them we got a ticket on the road. One of the employees said, "Oh yeah, I have a bunch of those." She even had ticket payment forms at the reception desk. We already paid though, so didn't need them. It made us feel a little better that it didn't seem to be a total scam. After unpacking we went for a walk around Orebić.
View from the room |
View from the room |
in the hotel |
walkabout |
Swordfish |
Stained glass at the church we passed, Parish Church of the Helpers of Christians |
The car ferry that we did not take |
Approaching Korčula |
Korčula |
a view from the top of the bell tower |
another view from the top of the bell tower |
another |
another |
another |
Then we went into the church, lovely Catholic Church, but no photos inside.
Next we wandered to the Marco Polo house and saw the Church of Saint Peter next to it, a super old church that you cannot go in. Croatia claims that Marco Polo was born in this house. However, the Italians disagree.
Church of Saint Peter
We went into the ruins of part of the house but did not pay to go into the museum.
|
In the ruined part of the Marco Polo House |
Then we wandered around along the coast and took some photos of the blue blue blue water behind us. Then we found some cannons and then the gate to the old city.
We wandered more around the coast, passed a nunnery, and on the way back one was driving out of the garage in a white VW.
nunnery |
nunnery |
Mosaic alter |
There were lots of little kids playing nearby as it was where the cannons are, and even one "playing" a wooden guitar and "singing" for tips. Next we went to look at the bigger nice boats. Unfortunately the previous ferry had left at 3:30 when we were not yet ready to leave and the next did not leave until 7:30pm, it was about 5:20 so we took a taxi boat back with three other ladies, it was a great ride!
We had dinner at the hotel again but got to eat outside this time because the weather was lovely, I had seafood risotto, Marcus had beefsteak and we split a bottle of wine.
Day 5 - May 17 - Orebić and surrounding areas, Croatia
We woke up, it was raining outside so we had breakfast indoors. Then we waited until 11AM when we met our driver for our wine tour. We were slotted to visit three wineries. The first winery, Boutique winery Mikulic, was owned by the family that owned the hotel we were staying in. The wine was okay but we were not in love with it so after the tasting we moved on to the next.The next winery was also family owned, Vinarija Bartulović. The member of the family doing our tasting was so personable and fun. We tried a few wines, and then he must have liked us because he kept bringing more. His wines were soooo fabulous. We purchased three there. We spent a while at that winery chatting and trying wines and eating fresh cheeses.
Grape press |
Fresh cheeses |
All the wines we tried |
Success! |
Earlier in the day our driver had suggested that we go and eat mussels at a place as it was extremely fresh and very quiet and nice. When we left Matuško we headed there, it was in Drače. It was called Mussel & Oyster Bar "SUTVID." And was little more than a shack with a deck. I ordered 3 oysters to start and Marcus and I both ordered mussels prepared in olive oil, garlic, and lemon. They literally pulled our lunch out of the bay. I couldn't believe Marcus ate the mussels, but he did! He didn't finish them though so I shared the rest with our guide. We also each had a nice glass of local white wine.
After lunch he asked if we had been happy with the places we'd gone or if we wanted to go anywhere else, we mentioned a place he had heard of but he waved it off and said no no that's a big operation and not traditional and very busy. We asked if he had any more he suggested. He called up his friend and asked if he would do a tasting for us and then we were driving to that winery. It was Winery Dežulović. Outside was a beautiful garden, tended only by his wife, flowers of all sorts, and then potatoes, lettuces, fruits, all sorts of things. We tried four wines, I liked the white one a lot and one of the reds so we got some bottles of those. We also tried sour cherry and another flavor of rakija. Then we went back to the hotel.
Back at the hotel, I put on my bikini and went out to our lounge chairs, I got in the Adriatic Sea but it was pretty chilly so I got out quickly and went back to my nice sunny chair.
Then we tried to walk to a nearby winery (the one the guide waved off) which according to three different internet sources closed at either 4, 7, or 9. It was about 5:45 when we set off. We got there at about 6:10 and guess what? the sign on the door said it closed at 6. whomp whomp whomp. We walked back along the beach. We decided to eat at a different restaurant that night a little bit past our hotel. We had some so-so wine and I had a steak, it was not really cooked medium...I left some rare pieces on the plate, Marcus had some good looking pork dish. Then we walked back to the room and went to sleep. The next day we were heading to Montenegro.
Then we tried to walk to a nearby winery (the one the guide waved off) which according to three different internet sources closed at either 4, 7, or 9. It was about 5:45 when we set off. We got there at about 6:10 and guess what? the sign on the door said it closed at 6. whomp whomp whomp. We walked back along the beach. We decided to eat at a different restaurant that night a little bit past our hotel. We had some so-so wine and I had a steak, it was not really cooked medium...I left some rare pieces on the plate, Marcus had some good looking pork dish. Then we walked back to the room and went to sleep. The next day we were heading to Montenegro.
Day 6 - May 18 - Orebić, Croatia to Perast, Montenegro
After breakfast we checked out and drove to Montenegro. We kept the top up this time for most of it, but still enjoyed the lovely scenery. The border crossing was pretty quick, exited Croatia (EU county) and then entered Montenegro (not EU country), we did put the top down after passing into Montenegro. We were met by our host, an Australian/Serbian named Saša, with the traditional Serbian welcome drink of rakija. He showed us around the Monte Bay Retreat and told us about various activities we could do, like use the sauna or the hot tub with notice as they were both wood burning, or go on a trip to a winery. Saša restored the building we were staying in into a hotel over the pervious 4 years and is there everyday running it. He used to be a goalie in the Premier League, so, is clearly very dedicated to whatever he does, which made it a great place to stay.The welcoming rakija |
The sauna |
Saint John the Baptist Church |
Church of Saint Mark |
We stopped at a place for an early dinner, 5PM. It was delicious. I had chicken with an avocado and zucchini salsa...I've never had cooked avocado before. Marcus had chicken risotto. I also had a glass of really good local red wine and he had local beer.
view from the restaurant |
view from the restaurant |
We went back to the hotel and relaxed, then bought a bottle of wine and drank it out on the pool terrace while the sun set. When we came back in Saša said he had thought we'd already gone in and forgot about us out there and called us great guests. He told us if he couldn't get any other guests to go to the winery he'd go with just us. The room had a lovely bathtub so I took a bubble bath and then we went to bed.
Day 7 - May 19 - Perast and Kotor, Montenegro
We woke up and got ready. The shower had those color changing lights like at a spa and there was a waterfall, rain, or wand option. Loveddddd it. Then we had breakfast. I had yogurt and fruit and then scrambled eggs and bacon, Marcus had fancy artisanal bread and then scrambled eggs and bacon with toast. Then we drove to Kotor, about 15 minutes away. We walked around the town square, a Catholic Church had a sign with a X across tank tops and shorts (my attire) and said something very dumb about "your attire shows your respect for God, yourself and where you're from," so we didn't go in. There was also a Serbian Orthodox Church but we didn't go in that one either.Serbian Orthodox Church |
Another older Serbian Orthodox Church |
On the way down I decided it was a Catholic Chapel so I went up to get some holy water and cross myself and say a prayer, the keeper saw me and said please, please, go inside. So I did. There was a beautiful Mary statue in it, but I took no photos. When I came out he asked me if I knew the name of the church and I said no because I did not see it on the map. He said it was Our Lady of Good Health and told me a little more about it (later on the map I did find it written as Our Lady of Remedy). We finished walking down the steps and then had lunch. We walked around some more and then left Kotor. On our way to the hotel I had seen a sign about a cave and I wanted to go to it. We drove until we found it, it was really a stairway up to just a small cave that I am sure someone was squatting in.
Then we walked down to the rocks where apparently when it rains the water floods through and out into the bay.
When then drove back to the hotel and went up to the pool deck to lay in the sun and I got in the water even though it was cold.
Then we went to dinner at the same place we went the night before because it had been so good. I had delicious steak frites and Marcus had chicken in Gorgonzola sauce. Then we walked to a market and bought a bottle of wine to bring home and two mini bottles to drink back at the room. We had the wine out on our private terrace in coffee mugs à la Doris Burton. The staff was around and I could hear a Serbian-Canadian/Romanian couple upstairs say "where is everyone?" So when we finished our wine we went upstairs and I said "everyone is here." Marcus and I got a glass of wine, white for me this time, Marcus called his parents so I talked to Saša's cousin, also Saša. He had just arrived from Serbia to work there the day before Marcus and I arrived. He has a degree in Forensics from a university in Bosnia but is working "behind this bar" so we were kindred spirits. Then an English couple came back and it was his birthday so proprietor Saša got a round for everyone. Then Marcus and I talked to both Sašas about air traffic, life in Dubai, Hilary, Trump, where we were from, etc. Then bed.
Day 8 - May 20 - Kotor Bay, Montenegro
Woke up, breakfast, then changed into swimsuit and coverup for our boat tour. First we went to Our Lady of the Rocks and went in the church and then museum.There was a beautiful Madonna there.
Also lots of other cool old things. Then we took the boat over to the island that the Benedictine Monastery is on, but you can't go on it.
Then Mamula island, which our boat captain told us was "the Yugoslavian Alcatraz". Apparently you used to be able to go on it, but now they are building a 5 star hotel on it so when we tried to pull up there was a man and he spoke with our captain in their language and then our captain said not possible and told us why.
Mamula |
Then we saw a fort, then an Orthodox Church on an island, then a beach you can only get to by boat, then Herceg Novi, then another Catholic Church on an island and this one had a German Shepard and a pug or similar small mixed breed, around this point the sea water made the lens on the phone all smear-y and the rest of the photos from the tour weren't so great. Then we went near the Tivat Airport and then the Port of Montenegro, which had some huge boats, some probably cruise ships, some yachts.
a fort |
Orthodox Church |
Beach accessible by boat |
Herceg Novi |
Herceg Novi |
We relaxed and then went for a snack, I ordered an "iced coffee", and received in turn, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a scoop of chocolate ice cream, a shot of espresso, and whipped cream, not what I was anticipating at all...but really yummy. Then we went to look for a souvenir, we couldn't find anything that wasn't too tacky. We went back to the hotel and relaxed for a few hours. At 8PM we had a 4 course dinner with a white bottle of wine prepared by Saša's father-in-law, a professional chef. I had selected the fish menu so had for the first three courses fish soup, then shrimp risotto, then a whole sea bream. Marcus had opted for the meat menu and had carrot soup, followed by prosciutto and cheese, and then lamb cooked in the Montenegrin way.
For dessert we were given the option of baklava or granita and were served up on the pool deck. I had the granita since I cannot eat baklava, Marcus had baklava. Then we were given a limon rakija for a night cap by Saša. We chatted a bit about life with the English couple who had also done the four course dinner, and then a Greek and English couple that later came up to the terrace. Then was sleep.
Day 9 - May 21 - Perast and Vinarija Dabović
Wine tour day. We woke up, had breakfast, but skipped the starter as Saša said there would be a ton of food at the winery. After eating we relaxed in the room until about noon when we went upstairs. We waited for everyone, there was an English girl and her wonderful gay friend, an English girl and her Greek husband, and us. We set off with a driver and a girl from Holland that works at the hotel who rode with us until the first stop we made that had a nice picturesque view of the bay. The girl hitchhiked back from there, I said in America that is how you die, but apparently it is very common in Montenegro.Bay of Kotor behind us |
Next we went up to have lunch. It was delicious, there was lamb, veal, pork that was breaded so I didn't eat it but Marcus said it was great. Homemade bread and corn bread that Marcus ate, deliciously prepared zucchini that Saša got Marcus to try, potatoes, and a soup that had noodles so I didn't eat it. We drank red, white, rose, and rakija. A highlight was that Saša read everyone's coffee grounds.
The spread |
Saša reading coffee |
Then we drove to the farm. I befriended a dog, fed some goats, saw chickens, pigs, a cow, and a donkey.
Saša and us |
Then we went back to the winery for more rakija and wine, then loaded up and drove back to the hotel. I went in the hot tub. Marcus was tired and had to drive us back to Crotia in the morning so went to the room. The English girl and guy that were with us on the wine tour and this American couple that checked in while we were all gone were dancing on the pool terrace. They tried to get me to join but I didn't want to dance alone, so I sat in the hot tub then laid on a chair and looked at the stars for a bit, then went back to the room.
Leaving Day - May 22 - Perast, Montenegro to Dubrovnik, Croatia to Dubai
We woke up, got everything ready, had a quick breakfast and then had to wake up some other hotel guests because we were blocked in in the lot and we needed to leave. Going out of Montenegro was quick, getting back into Croatia took longer, probably 20 minutes. Then we went to the airport and then to the lounge and then boarded our flight home.***If you'd like to see all of the photos, please email me and I will send you a link. :-)
Hope you enjoyed it,
Rupert's Mom
No comments:
Post a Comment